Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Day 21 - Nha Trang Biennial Beach Festival

Got picked up in the morning by my new Couchsurfing friend, Quang, whom I met in Saigon. He works in trade marketing at Pepsico in Saigon, but is originally from Nha Trang, and happened to be home this weekend to see the beach festival. This would be my first live-in couch surfing experience, living with his family for a couple days. This would probably be more authentic than the homestay I experienced in Can Tho, Vietnam.

Arrived at his home in the morning where I was able to have my first homecooked meal for breakfast - a nice hearty bowl of Pho. After that, we headed to a remote area in the northern area of Nha Trang to check out some caves where Salangane Birds build nests. Apparently Nha Trang produces some of the most expensive Birds' Nest (saliva) products in the world, and these birds are miniature, which explains why it's so expensive.

We chilled in the area for about an hour, finding shade and soaking our feet in the water, and this provided a good opportunity to learn more about Vietnam. He told me a little about his job at Pepsico and the difference between trade marketing (push marketing) and marketing (pull marketing). We talked salaries and I got a sense of the wage disparity between people in U.S. and Vietnam. Of course, the cost of living is much lower in Vietnam, but it still seems that taking this into consideration, they make much less, and it's harder for them to save money. The average teenage worker at KFC in Vietnam makes about 10,000 Dong per hour ($0.50). All trip, we ended up figuring out the cost of everything in KFC hours whenever we had the chance. One beer on the beach? 1.5 KFC hours.

His desire is to move to the United States sometime in the future, finding a job in marketing. He's been to the U.S. a couple times in his life already, participating in Work/Study programs and couchsurfing throughout the states. I suggested that he should maybe work and live in highly-concentrated Vietnamese areas to improve his English and ease his way into American culture, but he wouldn't want to just move to America and work at a job that doesn't use his skills or experience. If he wanted to do that, he would have just illegally stayed in the U.S. when he was here. Instead, his strategy is to work at his company for a couple of years and hope to transfer. I told him I'd try to help him find a job here in the U.S., but the process of getting a visa would be difficult and time consuming. We'll see what happens in the near future.

We talked a little about the credit crisis in America and I learned a little about the value of money in Vietnam. About 20,100 Vietnamese Dong equals $1 USD. The inflation rates (as reported by the government) is around 3-4% every month! Quang says this is just a report by the government, but believes the inflation rate is even higher. Interest rates to take a loan out are around 18% and saving money in a bank produces around a 12% return. No one really saves money in a bank because of the inflation rates, which is the reason why it costs so much to borrow money from the bank. There isn't much of a supply.

I asked Quang about the woman I met on the Funky Monkey Boat Tour and got a better understanding of her relationship with the man. He believes there's a mutual understanding between the two people. One, that the man was only there to party, have sex, find companionship while on vacation without any intent on getting married. Two, the woman understands this, but still likes to entertain the man, getting everything paid for while she entertains him.

We headed back to his house for another homecooked meal. I gave my passport to his father so that he could report it to the government. Your location is reported to the government every night you stay somewhere, whether it be at a hotel, homestay, etc. After his father reported it, we found out that I wasn't really supposed to stay over his house, and that only relatives and family are allowed to stay over. Most people who have friends over don't really report any of this though. It was OK for me to stay over this time since he wasn't aware of the restrictions. I guess it's one way the government knows exactly where I am everyday.

In the afternoon we headed to the beach to swim around and check out some of the Beach Festival activities. There, we saw a map of the islands surrounding Vietnam/China and I learned about a new recent international issue between the two countries over the ownership of a group of South China Sea islands. The territorial dispute actually involves six countries - China, Vietnam, Taiwan, Brunei, Philippines, and Malaysia, but most of the tension currently is between China and Vietnam.

I also learned that there is speculation that Vinh Van Phong, which is an area north of Nha Trang, might become the biggest harbor in S.E. Asia, surpassing Hong Kong and Singapore, and that the city will become the biggest (surpassing HCMC) in the next 100 years because the sea level is much deeper than in Hong Kong, which will allow larger ships to pass through safely. Who knows how much wealth it will bring to the country in the future.

At the end of the night, we headed back to the beach to check out the Beach Festival, which is a huge celebration that brings Vietnamese from all parts of the country to Nha Trang to celebrate the beautiful beaches in the area. I had never seen so many Vietnamese people congregated in one place, not even in Little Saigon near my hometown in Southern California. There were probably about a hundred thousand people (my estimation skills may be grossly off) walking around the streets and on the beaches. I don't think the festival planners anticipated such a huge turn out because the seating area to watch the stage show was not big enough to accomodate even 5% of the people who showed up. Nonetheless, it was an incredible moment to be able to celebrate with the people, who were very proud of their beach city. Quang and I watched the stage show on the sidelines, before almost being trampled by a float that was trying to pass through. A little poor planning there. The show featured pyrotechnics, dancing, famous singers, Vietnamese models, and a presentation of the different countries who were a part of the "39 most beautiful bays in the world." I saw the U.S. represented once with our San Francisco Bay, but am unsure if there were any others from my country.

There was a huge 15 minute fireworks show along the beach at the end of the celebration. It was fun to watch everyone get excited at some of the big moments of the show when they started clapping and "oooohing" and "ahhhing." At the end of the night, we headed to a beach party where they had a live cover band sing pop songs. Typical pop songs - Lady Gaga songs were performed 3 times, but it was really fun to dance on the beach intoxicated.

I think it says "Do Not Trespass"




Secluded cove in the north of Nha Trang


In the caves where the Salangane Swallows build their nests

My new friend Quang near the rock formations in the cove

Home-cooked lunch!

You will see many street peddlers trying to sell you these lottery tickets. Quang says that each ticket costs 5,000 dong and the seller gets 10% of the sales. It's an easy way to make a little cash since you don't have to carry anything heavy, just walk around with these tickets.

Nem Cuon - Looks exactly like the spring rolls at Brodard back home! Quang corrected me when I called them "nem nuong." The rolls were just as good as Brodard, although I thought the sauce could be better.

Grilled nem nuong - I'm used to seeing these in Little Saigon wrapped in cellophane and refrigerated. Inside the leaves is pork, pork skin, and black pepper. 

The street vendor making Nem Cuon

One of the many entrances to the Nha Trang beach festival.

The stands could not accommodate all the guests...

...so they climbed the scaffolding.




Various pictures of the stage performances.

Fireworks on the beach


Beach party to end the night right!

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Day 20 - Funky Monkey Boat Tour

I heard a little about this boat tour from my old housemate, who sent me a link from someone else who had done this tour. It was mostly a party on a ship, with short stops at four different islands around Nha Trang. More emphasis on PARTY than anything else. All the tour companies around the city had this type of tour available, but "Funky Monkey" really pulled me in with the advertisement since it looked more like fun than any of the others.

The tour bus picked me up, along with many Vietnamese families who were probably in the city for the Beach Festival. We were shuttled to the pier, where tens of boats all floated on the dock, waiting to be packed with locals and foreigners alike. My boat consisted of mostly Vietnamese families and a couple Dutch and German guys who worked in Saigon, but were in Nha Trang for vacation. Each of them had a Vietnamese girl by their side.

The first stop was on an island that had an aquarium (Tri Nguyen) that housed many giant fishes. Nothing too exciting here, except for the fact that they had so many HUGE fishes in such SMALL tanks... There was also a small enclosed area with fishes and giant sea turtles that you could feed.

Next, we sailed to the next island, where we could snorkel along the shallow waters. I've had pretty dismal experiences snorkeling, mostly relating to me freaking out in the saltwater. Since I don't really know how to swim very well, I tend to panic easily when I'm in open waters, even when wearing a life jacket. The same thing happened here, when I jumped into the water and tried to swim to shore, which took so much energy. Once I was on shore, I realized that I would have to swim again to get back onto the boat... I snorkeled for many a couple minutes, before swimming back onto the boat, more concerned about getting back safely than looking at the pretty fishes and coral. By this point, the fun began, when some of the guests jumped off the top of the boat into the waters and relaxed on lifesavers while drinking Tiger Beers.

During this time, I noticed one of the girls,who came with one of the white guys, sitting alone on the boat, not wanting to get wet. I thought this was the perfect opportunity to get some answers from her about the relationship she had with this man. For the most part, it seemed like she was conveying the fact that they were just friends, and that she was single. I tried to ask her how the two of them met, but I didn't get an answer. She then proceeded to ask me where I was from, what type of job I had, what my phone number was, what hotel I was staying at tonight, and what I was doing tonight, emphasizing the fact that she had a lot of single girlfriends that she could introduce me to. I could only laugh in my head since I didn't know what her motives were and told her that I didn't have a phone number and I was busy tonight... I don't know if I got any of my questions answered from this inquisition...

After that, we sailed to the third island, while it was nearing lunchtime. Floating near the island, we had lunch, which was a smorgasbord of delicious Vietnamese food that alone, was worth the price of admission on this tour ($5 USD). We heartily ate and soon after it was time for Happy Hour and Live music from the "Funky Monkey" Boy Band. But before any of the festivities, there were introductions of people representing different countries and parts of Vietnam. A German Guy, Dutch Guy, and American Guy (me!) were each separately asked to come to the front, where we all sang our own renditions of "Frere Jacques" in our own native languages.

I didn't know "Frere Jacques" in English...

I felt like that girl in Sister Act 2 who didn't know the words to Mary Had a Little Lamb and had to resort to singing "The Loveboat" Theme song...

When I was onstage, I told our host that I didn't know the song in English, but only in French (which was a lie, because I only knew parts of the song in French). Anyways...who really knows this song in English???

After that, our host and the Funky Monkey Band sang different Vietnamese songs before ending the performance with a rendition of "Unchained Melody."

Floating Bar Happy Hour came next, where we all jumped into the water to get free "Funky Monkey Cocktails" while we floated in lifevests and lifesavers. Music blasted in the background, including House of Pain's "Jump Around" and The Wonder Girls' "Nobody." I did find the courage to jump in the water in my vest...who can say no to free alcohol?

The last island stop was at Mot Island, which allowed many of us to lazily lie on the beach for a good hour, recovering from the day's activities. Overall a good trip that was worth the $5. Additional optional fees included the acquarium ($1), Sea Urchin Soup ($2.5), and the Mot Island Entrance ($1).

After the boat trip, I headed back to the beach to soak in more sun. I bought a kite to fly since it was a nice and windy day. The kite string ended up being very short, so my kite cowered over the other kites flying in the air. Next time, I'll make sure I purchase the higher quality kites... Spent the rest of the night lounging on the beach until dusk before having dinner at a street corner where they served beef steaks and retreated back to the hotel for the night...

Tri Nguyen Aquarium - First stop on the Funky Monkey Boat Tour

The top of the aquarium provided beautiful views of the boats around the island.

Feeding Sea Turtles at the Aquarium

Preparing lunch for all the hungry guests


Sea Urchin Soup - A mix between a rice porridge and egg drop soup with pieces of sea urchin

Sitting on the top of the boat, starving before lunchtime


LUNCHTIME

The Funky Monkey Boy Band

Funky Monkey Happy Hour/Floating Bar

Mot Island

Flying Kites at Nha Trang Beach

Having a Beer at Dusk

Beef Steak with a tomato sauce, onions, and homemade Mayonnaise, along with salad and a baguette. I had two of these for dinner.

Friday, June 10, 2011

Day 19 - Nha Trang Beaches

Arrived in Nha Trang at 7am in the morning and once again, was bombarded with "xe om" (motorbike) drivers trying to drive me to a hotel. Luckily, I already booked a hotel through orbitz, which ended up being more expensive than if I were to walk in and ask for a room...but I guess you pay for the assurance of knowing you have an address to head to and a room to sleep in when you arrive in the city.

The room wouldn't be ready until 10am, so I left my backpack at the hotel lobby and walked around the city looking for a spot for breakfast. All I could think about during these next three hours was SHOWER SHOWER SHOWER.

Nha Trang, host of the 2008 Miss Universe Pageant (where Lady Gaga performed before making it big), is Vietnam's primary beach resort for both tourists and locals. The main tourist area houses many hotels within 2-3 blocks of the beach. The waters are clean and clear, unlike the polluted waters of HCMC. Numerous travel agencies advertise scuba adventures, which I hear are great in this city. There are also boat tours around some of the adjacent islands, a huge waterpark on an island of its own, hot springs, museums, "booze cruises", and other sights to see.

Like any first day in a new city, I headed straight (after showering, flossing, brushing my teeth, scrubbing my face, washing my clothes, etc.) to the travel agencies to see what my options were. My friend who's hometown is in Nha Trang suggested that I go on a scuba diving adventure, but I don't think I have the courage to do it when I can't swim very well. It was also a little pricey... He also suggested I take a boat island tour, which I decided on doing tomorrow since I heard good things about it and it was only $5. He was to arrive in the city in two days and would show me around some of the other sights in the city, including the huge waterpark and the hot springs.

After booking the boat tour for tomorrow, I headed to the beach to check everything out. The beaches were very clean and the weather was cooler and windier than in all the other parts of Vietnam I've been to. The currents weren't very strong, and it dawned on me that there really doesn't seem to be a surfing culture in Vietnam, probably due to the scarcity of huge waves to ride.

The beaches were full of life as the city was preparing for a huge Beach Festival that only occurs every 2 years. I was lucky enough to arrive for this occasion. I've always wanted to see some of the special holidays or festivals in each country, but it's been tough figuring it all out and scheduling it correctly. The only other festival I am aware of is the Full Moon Party, which occurs in Thailand every full moon. It's a huge party that thousands of people participate in, especially foreigners who are touring all the backpacker party spots in S.E. Asia. I did happen to be in Vietnam for the Half Year holiday, which occurs half a year after Tet, or Vietnamese New Year. I was in Phu Quoc at the time, but I asked my friend if he celebrated, and he said he didn't and that the holiday was more celebrated by the older people in Vietnam.

After exploring the beach and having dinner, I headed back to the hotel, and just lounged around since it had been a while since I had my own room, with A/C, and hot water. I wanted to take advantage of all these luxuries before I have to live cheap and dirty again.

Nha Trang - Municipal Beach



Saw a sports match being played that I was unfamiliar with. It was almost like volleyball, except the courts were smaller, and the players used their feet instead of their hands. They played with thick socks, and a player could hit the ball twice in a row.

Splurging a little for lunch - Bo Luc Lac (Shaking Beef)

Nearing sunset on the beach, although the beach was located on the east coast of Vietnam.



The streets were closed off so that the kids could rehearse for the Beach Festival

Day 18 - Phu Quoc to HCMC to Nha Trang

Apparently small airports don't run 24 hours a day like major international ones. I found that out when I woke up and headed to the airport at 5:45am to catch my 7:40am flight back to HCMC. When I arrived, the airport was deserted. The taxi driver told me it opened at 6am. It was so foreign for me to see someone open the sliding doors, turn on the monitors, and set up the security scanners, since I'm so used to seeing the hustle and bustle of a large airport, filled with people going to different destinations.

The flight took a quick 30 minutes, and upon arrival, I headed straight to the nearest air-conditioned place, which happened to be the airport restaurant. Today was the first day I would not be able to shower, so I did NOT want to be sweating outside at all. I did not book a hotel room today since I had a sleeper bus scheduled at 8PM headed towards Nha Trang. We would arrive at around 7AM the following day.

I spent the next 3 hours at the airport restaurant just using the internet before my friend picked me up on his motorbike and we had lunch at the mall across the street. I ended up roaming around the mall afterwards and decided to watch Kung Fu Panda 2, where the theatre was filled with Vietnamese youth. The movie was not dubbed in Vietnamese, but instead had subtitles. I wondered if the Vietnamese would get the "Jack Black" humor of the movie, or if it would get lost in translation. For the most part, I think everyone got most of the jokes. It could possibly be because it was an animated film, which I think is easier to watch universally.

My friend picked me up after work and we had dinner at a dim sum restaurant. The dim sum was not nearly as good as anything you could find in China or in the hundreds of Chinatowns in the U.S. and the portions were smaller.

My friend dropped me off at the bus station, where I took the shittiest ride of the entire trip! The advertisements for these sleeper buses looked better than reality. The buses were older, and the beds dirtier. Each bus had 2 stories of beds, and a total of 40 beds. I was unlucky in getting a bed in the back and top. You were more prone to feel every pothole if you slept on any of the top beds, and there were 5 beds, side by side in the back, so I got stuck sleeping between two obnoxious French dudes, who for some reason felt it necessary to talk loudly whenever they felt like it throughout the 10 hour bus ride and comment on everything they saw outside the window. Their feet reeked, but so did my armpits...so it was just a bad situation for all of us. Good thing I had my headphones on, but I don't know if I'm going to continue with these buses. I have two more tickets for overnight buses heading to Hoi An, and Hanoi. I might just opt to take a sleeper train, or fly there...

DON'T GET A SLEEPER BUS TICKET UNLESS YOU GET YOUR OWN SEPARATE BED WITH NO ONE SLEEPING ON EITHER SIDE OF YOU

Empty airport in Phu Quoc

My ride back to HCMC

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Day 17 - Motorbiking Phu Quoc Islands

We made it a plan to wake up, grab breakfast, and hit the road by renting motorbikes so we could explore the island on our own. The entire island is around 31 miles long and 12 miles wide, so it was easy to cover a lot of ground in one day.

The last time I rode a motorbike was about 5 years ago when I rented them in Hawaii. It took a little time to get used to, but it was easy relearning how to ride one of these babies, especially since it was an automatic.

Navigating the streets was easy too since the main roads were not nearly as claustrophobic as in Ho Chi Minh City. Once outside the major towns, we were free to roam about in complete peace, sometimes veering off the concrete and onto orange dirt roads, trying to stumble upon new sights. It was literally breathtaking, driving 60-80 km/hr, yelling at the top of your lungs as the wind (and small insects and gravel) blew in your face.

We headed northwest on the island and reached a secluded area where there was only one resort, and we explored the beach there. The water was so shallow, that you could literally walk across, as if you were walking on water. There were little ships, painted in different shades of pastel blue and green, docked near shore. They were probably fishing for crabs.

After getting a drink at the resort and relaxing near the ocean, we headed west to try and see some of the national park, which makes up about 70 percent of the entire island. We passed by a pepper farm, which is one of the main products grown on the island. Fish sauce is also famous here, and certain parts of the town reeked (or perfumed, depending on who you are asking) of this Vietnamese condiment. It was a challenge getting through some of the dirt roads because of the potholes and muddy waters, but challenging in a fun way. I guess the best tip you could follow is to not hesitate or slow down when you traverse through, or you may get stuck or fall over.

We got lost (more like shoo-ed away by the locals) when were trying to find a certain beach to relax at. A little boy ended up guiding us on our way back (even though I had GPS and didn't need the help), and then when he showed us the way, he demanded 30,000 dong from us. Another tactic of someone giving help, and another thing I dislike about travelling. You never know what the honest intentions of others are. They could either genuinely want to help you out, or they could only be trying to make a couple bucks. We ended up giving him around 15,000 dong, shaking our finger at him before we ditched him.

By the afternoon, we headed back to our bungalows to catch some sun at our beach – Truong Beach. After four hours of biking, I got sunburned on my shoulders and thighs. The waters were choppy and warm, and I walked around the shore to explore some of the other areas. There were jellyfish in the ocean, although the only two I saw were washed up on shore. There were also huge rock formations that were perfect for bouldering! I attempted to climb some of them but didn't want to try to top it without a spotter or crash pad.

At dusk, we headed out on our motorbikes again to grab dinner and stumbled on the local night market there, which served lots of fresh seafood. I was so excited to try everything, since the prices were all very cheap for FRESH seafood. I got a large sea snail, some small sea snails, clams, and a sea urchin. Probably the best clams I've ever had, because they were so fresh, you could still taste the ocean in them. They were barbequed and seasoned with peanuts, green onions, garlic, and oil. The large sea snail was also very good. It was like a huge chunk of meat, hard to cut, but delicious. The sea urchin was also barbequed, and the only time I'd ever tried sea urchin was as Uni at a sushi bar. I definitely prefer it raw, instead of barbequed. The small sea snails were the worst part of the meal because they were unseasoned. There really wasn't a taste to any of them.

I'm headed to Nha Trang next, which is another coastal beach town and hopefully, there will be even better seafood there!

We called it a night early since I had to wake up tomorrow early (again) to catch a flight back to HCMC.

Motorbiking through the islands

Mr. CPA burning rubber full throttle at 60km/hr

Matching Gold Helmet to go with the Gold Bike

As Michael put it - "Walking across the sea the way Jesus did it"

Small ships fishing for crabs

Getting drinks at a private resort

The damage on my feet

Large sea snails

Various seafood ready to be BBQ'd at the night market

Our dinner being cooked

The BEST part of dinner - clams!

Phu Quoc Night Market