Showing posts with label mahagandhayon monastery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mahagandhayon monastery. Show all posts

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Days 86-88 Three Day Trek from Kalaw to Nuang Shwe

The next three days were spent treking through the mountainous terrain from Kalaw down to Inle Lake. The total distance was around 55km in total, while we walked through rice terraces, vegetable fields, forests, and mountains, coming into contact with various small villages in the vicinity, consisting for anywhere from 20 to 200 families per village.

Thankfully, the weather was cool most of the days, as the clouds shaded us from much of the direct sunlight. It also only drizzled throughout the day, which made it easier for us to trek through the mud and red dirt.

We stopped by various villages to greet them and also to stop for lunch and even stay overnight. It was probably the best seven meals I have had in all three weeks of traveling in Myanmar because we had our own chef who trekked with us and cooked our meals.

The first night was spent in a village while the second night was spent at a monastery with around 15 novice monks ranging in age from 6 to 14 years old. They would chant throughout the day, and even in the morning around 4am, serving as our alarm clocks for the day. It was a special experience being able to share and witness their spiritual activities, and to be able to sleep inside the monastery as well!

Our guide was also very informative of the vegetation around us while we trekked, and was very open about speaking about the current situation in the country. He actually doesn't believe the country needs any support from China at all. The country is actually very wealthy with a very strong military. According to him, the country spends 60% of its GDP on the military (and a measly 3% on healthcare and 1% on education). It doesn't need any monetary support from other countries as well because of the rich resources the country has in gems.

He says that very few people in the country actually live in poverty because the people take care of each other, and there actually is enough food and bare minimal resources to go around for everyone.

Much of the country is inaccessible to tourists because there aren't enough roads built to reach these areas, and the government doesn't care to create these roads, but would rather force wealthy tourists to take flights to reach these areas and pay exorbant amounts of money for access to these areas. They also don't want foreigners to see that most of the people in these areas are actually living quite comfortably, despite what UN figures tell the rest of the world.

While there are international sanctions imposed on the country that prevent major corporations from having presence in the country, some of this activity occurs behind the scenes. He has even speculated that the country obtains US weapons and arms through Singapore.

One of the most interesting things he said was that the country knows about all these problems and believes that they can't do anything about it. He said that the country is a majority Buddhist and many people have a sort of fatalistic mentality and outlook on it all. They all believe that something occurred in their past lives that made them deserve their current conditions and that they should just accept it. It would be interesting to argue that religion plays an important part in complacency if it were indeed true.

The treks each day took around 6 – 8 hours, and we woke up around 5am both days and we out by 7am, which was quite the early start for me personally. When we reached Inle Lake, we took an hour-long boat ride to reach Nuang Shwe. Ay By the end of it all, my toes and shins were terribly aching, but it was a very adventurous three days, and the longest trek I've ever done so far. Hopefully there are more to come in India and/or Nepal (and with better hiking boots).



Traditional Village Medicine Man Instructional Book


















Playing "Shithead" on the Last Night with my Trekking Group

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Day 75 - Outside Mandalay

I spent the entire day on the back of a motorbike exploring three cities outside of Mandalay – Amarapura, Inway (Ava), and Sagaing.

The tourguide first took me to some of the sights in Mandalay, including Shwe In Bin Kyaung, a monastery build completely of teak wood, and Mahamuni Paya, which has a 13-ft Buddha in the center that has been continuously covered in gold paper leaves by the locals as they pray. The Buddha is said to be covered in up to 6-inches of gold over the span of over a hundred year. All of the statue is covered except for the face, which is kept completely clean. Women are not allowed in the inner chamber of the Paya and are not allowed to apply gold leaf to the Buddha.

We headed to Amarapura next, which is considered the royal ancient capital city of Myanmar. We stopped by a couple temples before visiting the Mahagandhayon Monastery, which is home to thousands of monks, including many young, novice monks robed in white. Some of the monks are only there for the span of their studies while others stay there indefinitely. We were lucky enough to arrive right before the almsgiving ceremony, which occurs everyday at around 10:15am when all the monks line up on the street to collect food from the volunteers who help cook for them. This is their only meal of the day.

Afterwards, we headed to one of the most famous sights in Amarapura, the U Bein Bridge - a 1,300 yard long teak footbridge used by the locals to cross the Taungthaman Lake. The rains and winds presented a challege as I watched every step I took down the bridge, some of the steps loose.

The next city we traveled to was Inwa, which required a boat ride across the river to reach. I met up with a Dutch man who happened to also be touring on motorbike and we explored the city together, avoiding some of the fees that were imposed on foreigners. The city itself was nothing too special – just more pagodas and stupas, and a leaning clock tower.

After lunch, we headed to Sagaing, which is home to about 500 stupas all within the hills of the city. We headed up Sagaing Hill, which was my exercise for the day. At the top were breathtaking views of the entire city, where you could see the hundreds of stupas scattered throughout the city. I can't believe how many stupas there are in this city. I thought Chiang Mai was incredible with it's many religious sites, but I think this city (and country) surpass it.

We headed back to Mandalay in the afternoon, where my tourguide helped me plan the rest of my 2-3 weeks in this country. It will be interesting figuring out how to get from one place to another, but that's all a part of the excitement.

I ended the night meeting up with the Dutch guy I met at Inwa and we had dinner and a couple beers, discussing some of the ridiculous stories of scamming that we had experienced and that he had heard from other people he met. It seems that white people have a lot more trouble with scammers than I do. I don't know if it's because locals view them as more vulnerable and gullible (or wealthier?), or maybe they are just easier to target than I am. It's riskier for them, but they have better stories to tell in the end.



Mahagandhayon Monastery - Alms Ceremony


Novice Monks eating around 10:30am


Mahamuni Paya (and the Men who are allowed to pray in the inner chamber)


Myanmar Marionettes

The meticulous craft of silk-making

Pagoda in Amarapura
U-Bein Bridge

Sagaing Hill

Inwa Bridge